An unexpected invitation landed in my inbox, bearing the promise of a Russian-themed lunch at Ezo restaurant. “You are invited,” it proclaimed, sparking a curious blend of excitement and uncertainty within me. Vodka, yes, that much I knew about Russians. But when it comes to their culinary prowess, my knowledge is as sparse as a Siberian winter landscape. Yet, nestled within that invitation was an irresistible intrigue, beckoning me into a world of flavors and traditions I had yet to explore. I accepted the invite, eager to uncover the culinary secrets hidden behind the Cyrillic curtain.
Ezo, the first 24-hour fine dining establishment in Nairobi, has quickly become a beacon for urban diners seeking not just a meal, but an experience. And at its helm is none other than Evgeny Vikentev, a Russian culinary virtuoso whose Michelin-starred touch elevates each dish to a symphony of flavors. Evgeny’s journey from the cobblestone streets of St. Petersburg to the vibrant culinary scene of Nairobi is a testament to his passion and dedication. With a resume adorned with experiences in Spain, Italy, and Germany, his expertise is as vast and diverse as the landscapes he has traversed.
It’s a Friday afternoon, the clouds looming as if threatening to pour, but I’m undeterred. After all, I’m headed indoors for a delightful experience. With eager anticipation, I arrive at Stellato Mall, located at 42 Muthithi Road in Westlands where the restaurant awaits. As I step into Ezo, the ambiance is a seamless fusion of elegance and excitement, with a touch of cosmopolitan charm. I can smell the scent of freshly prepared dishes tantalizingly in the air, beckoning me deeper into this culinary adventure.
I am greeted by the eager smiles of the staff, a sense of anticipation wraps around me. The hostess takes away my trench coat with grace, and before I can sink into my seat, a glass of prosecco finds its way into my hand, its effervescence a prelude to the delights that await. That first sip… starting with a crisp, refreshing note that sparkles like sunlight on a bubbling stream, is heavenly.
I am glad to see a few familiar faces, and in that moment, surrounded by the clink of glasses and the hum of conversation amongst us with the Chef included, I realize why this invitation had been impossible to resist. It wasn’t just about the food—it was about the journey, the passion, and the sheer delight of discovering something extraordinary in the most unexpected of places. And with Evgeny Vikentev at the helm, I knew that this Russian-themed lunch would be nothing short of spectacular.
Beyond its deliciousness, Russian cuisine I am told earns praise for its health-conscious approach, predominantly sourcing naturally grown ingredients. Yet, it’s not just about health—it’s about hearty satisfaction. Russian dishes abound with the richness of vegetable oil, sour cream, and mayo, ensuring every meal leaves you feeling fully satisfied.
Rooted in the abundance of vast lands, lush woods, and bountiful lakes and rivers, Russian national cuisine celebrates the bounty of nature. Grains and roots, vegetables, and an array of ingredients harvested from the fertile landscape find their way onto the Russian dining table.
Central to Russian gastronomy are staples like fish, mushrooms, and berries, each adding depth and character to dishes that speak to the soul as much as they do to the palate.
The five course meals served on this day were as follows: (1) Khanty-Mansi venison served with gingerbread pancake, sea buckthorn, and black chanterelles; (2) Squid shawarma accompanied by sturgeon caviar, eggplant, and kefir sauce; (3) Dumplings filled with smoked Volga pike, foie gras, and pike caviar, served in a hay and mushroom broth; (4) Sakhalin scallop served with rice, pumpkin cream, and chamomile mousse; and (5) Porcini mousse paired with malt ice cream, peaches, and roasted white chocolate.
As I reflect and look back, one of my favorite meals of the day was the squid shawarma with sturgeon caviar, eggplant, and kefir sauce. The mild sweetness of the squid combined with the savory and aromatic spices made it absolutely delightful. Additionally, the sauce was a fantastic addition, enhancing the flavor profile with its potential for tanginess, creaminess, or spiciness.
Another dish that I absolutely loved was the dumplings filled with smoked Volga pike, foie gras, and pike caviar, served in a hay and mushroom broth. The combination of flavors in each bite was exquisite, and the rich, comforting broth elevated the dish to another level of culinary bliss. It was light, fluffy and tender.
Given my sweet tooth, I couldn’t resist trying the Porcini mousse paired with malt ice cream, peaches, and roasted white chocolate. It was a heavenly combination that perfectly satisfied my cravings.
That starter, the Khanty-Mansi venison served with gingerbread pancake, sea buckthorn, and black chanterelles, was simply divine. It offered a perfect balance of sweet, savory, tart, and earthy flavors, all seamlessly intertwined. The gingerbread pancake, with its warm, spicy sweetness, was a delightful complement to the dish. Looking back, it stands out as my favorite part of the meal. I recall eagerly asking for more, captivated by the harmonious blend of flavors that left a lasting impression.
All in all, as they say in life, you’ve got to try out different things and explore. I would definitely encourage you to try out the Russian foods/menu. It’s a culinary adventure worth experiencing.
